Review: The Apron

by pick on December 7, 2010

Another guest post from Pick. Thanks Pick for sharing your experience at The Apron :) It looks like a pretty interesting place!

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I had the pleasure of attending the Apron at the Westin Wall Centre, Vancouver Airport for a small birthday gathering and again for another separate dinner. The chef at the Apron uses molecular gastronomy to create very detailed dishes filled with a variety of flavors. My first time eating there, I had a delicious butternut squash soup with apple pearls – something that would have been the product of food science. This time, however, I wanted to change my order up and try some new items.

First, I was presented with an amuse bouche of avocado purée foam vegetable garden with popcorn crumbles over it. This was a little bit sour in taste, but was a nice primer for the rest of my dishes.

Following the amuse bouche came the pork puff. I really enjoyed the pork puff, and found each puff individually flavorful enough to eat on its own. The spicy mayo that came with it was far too salty though.

After the pork, we had truffle poprcorn. You couldn’t really taste the truffle flavor in the popcorn, and I admit that I’m not the biggest popcorn fan so I could be a poor judge of this dish. Regardless, at the very least, I can say that my photography skills are improving. :)

Next came our other appetizer, lobster globes served with gnocchi and a parmesan crisp. I loved this dish! There is no menu for the Apron online, so unfortunately I don’t have more details on what’s in it, but I felt everything balanced itself out well. The foam and sauce was salty, which paired itself nicely with the doughy gnocchi, while the lobster globe’s added a punch of meaty sustenance. Great combination!

After the appetizers, came our mains. The first to arrive was the beef flank steak. Although medium rare was requested, the beef came as a medium almost well. It was served with a sour foam (I think it was wasabi foam), and nicely plated with an assortment of vegetables. Good taste, could have done without the foam, but really, nothing to write home about.

And finally came my favorite main for the evening: the sablefish! Although the camera focuses perfectly on the fish skin and what looks like fish, it’s actually an onion in the middle. The perfectly crispy fish is the golden triangle located on the top right of the photo. This fish would probably be the biggest reason I’d return to the Apron. Everything else I could have done without, but this fish (and it’s crispy detached skin), amazing. So amazing, that my mind has blanked out exactly what else was served with it even though I’ve got the photo right in front of me.

After our mains, we ordered our desserts. We tried the stilton cheesecake first, which was served with rhubarb crisps and port balls. Earlier this season, I had a fantastic blue cheese cheesecake from Salt Tasting Room, which is now (unfortunately), my measuring stick for all other cheesecakes. This cheesecake fell short of the one I had at Salt, but was still decent. The port balls were fun to eat, and burst into flavor when chomped on. The cheesecake also had a brulee top, which was nice, but still, not one of the best cheesecakes out there.

Our last dessert was the chocolate bar served with salted caramel ice cream. I enjoyed this more than the cheesecake, but it still wasn’t fantastic. It may be unfortunate again, that just the week before, I had been treated with the chocolate bar dessert from Oru, which is just amazing. This chocolate bar, was less rich and less creamy as the one from Oru. I prefer rich and creamy – if I’m going to go all out, I might as well do it right! The ice cream that was served with it was also lackluster. The caramel flavor was subdued, and didn’t seem to do much with the chocolate cake.

Overall, I enjoyed my experience at the Apron, but felt that there was still more kinks in the work that needs to be combed out in the kitchen.

Details:
3099 Corvette Way, Richmond
604-568-0749

Summary:
Food: [rating:3]
Service: [rating:3]
Price: $$$

The Apron on Urbanspoon

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